You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access
to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost,
you will have access to start new topics, reply to conversations,
privately message other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content
and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and
simple, so please join RX7Club.com today!
Before you begin, familiarize yourself with the harness. Know what
plugs you want to remove. Then read the forums and determine if you
still want to remove them. Finally, I take no responsibility if
you mess up your harness. You do the below at your own risk and if there
are any errors in my instructions it is up to you to sort them out
before you start.
Tools/Items You’ll Need:
A very small screwdriver
Wire Cutters
Soldering Iron
Solder
Heat Shrink Wrap
Needle-Nose Pliers
A variety of colored wire in gauge near to that of the harness wire
Electrical Tape
Box Cutter/Razor Blade
Wire Loom Protectors
Engine Harness
How to: Single Turbo Harness
1. Lay out the harness on a flat surface.
2. Label all the plugs with tape and marker. It is especially
important to identify the following plugs as they will be removed and/or
modified: AWS, Purge, AVSx4, Wastegate, Pre-control, EGR, IAC/ISC, Air
Pump, Rats nest x 8. Use the below diagrams. *A NOTE HERE: the
automatic transmission harness is different than the pictured harness
below; however, all essential plugs that you will be removing/modifying
remain the same. If you can’t figure out what the plug is and have
located all of the plugs on the diagram then don’t worry about it.
3. Carefully remove electrical tape and loom protection. Go slow
if this is an older harness or if using a sharp blade. I used a box
cutter and a pair of scissors to remove all piece of tape holding the
loom together. Be especially careful not to nick the wires.
4. Zip tie the loom at the various points of their splitting. You can see the white zip-ties on the first picture. This helps keep the loom from knotting or from becoming a mental overload.
5. Let’s get the nest first, locate the Grey plug within the rat’s nest.
You will see two black wires with a white stripe. This wire runs
throughout the rats nest and is a ground. Cut all of the colored wires attached to the rat nest’s plugs. Leave the black/white wires in place.
6. Here notice that there are actually 2 clusters within the rat nest.
The first cluster is connected with the black/white wire are the Blue,
Grey, Yellow, Orange and Black AVC plug. The second clusters is the
Green, Brown and White, Black plugs. Trace the black/White wire from
the grey connector to the trunk of the loom. You will find a metal
junction that merges this cluster’s ground to the main harness. Cut
this wire just below the metal junction so that the cluster can be
removed. Repeat this process for the other cluster (Brown, Green,
etc..).
7. Locate your other plugs and cut their wires. On my harness I
cut the following: AWS, Purge, AVSx4, Wastegate, Pre-control, EGR,
AirPump, Rats nest x 7. You will start to notice that most of the plugs
have a black/white ground wire running to them. I DID NOT REMOVE MY IAC/ISC.
8. Pull the colored wires that you’ve cut out of the loom. You’ll have a bunch.
9. The colored wires will run down to the connectors that plug into the ECU.
10. There’s probably many ways to de-pin the connectors. Here’s how I
did it. On the yellow plugs the tops and bottom of the plug flips open.
Look at the sides of the plugs and notice the small tabs. Carefully open the flip-tops of the plugs with a small screwdriver. I then take a pair of needle-nose pliers and grab the wire as close to the plug as possible with the pliers parallel to the plug. Next I rotate the pliers opposite direction from the plug and pull the pin out of the plug. See below.
11. Take out all of the colored wires to the plugs you're removing and their pins.
This ad is not displayed to registered or logged-in members. Register your free account today and become a member on RX7Club.com!
12. Now for grounds. The grounds will all trace back to a metal
juncture point. You can clip them above the metal junction or solder
them all together. I cut all of mine with the exception of 1 near the
IAC/ISC plug. Step 13.
13. Because you cut out the rat net, the IAC/ISC plug is now improperly grounded and will not function. To
resolve this you must connect the cut ground wire from the IAC/ISC plug
and solder it with one of the grounds connected to the main wiring
loom.
14. A word about the EGR. It does not have a black/white ground. Instead
it has a brown wire and a blue/aqua wire. The blue/aqua wire will run
to one of the yellow plugs at the start of the loom. You’ll de-pin it as
normal. The brown wire will run to a metal junction of other brown
wires. Cut the brown wire from the EGR as close to the metal junction
as possible without disturbing the other wires on the other side of the
metal junction and then wrap the junction back up.
14. At this point you are essentially done with the exception of taping everything up. I,
however, went one step further per badddrx7’s advice and added
additional BLANK wires back into the loom should I require wires for
future gauges or electrical needs.
15. To do this, take several different colored wires and run them up the length of the wiring harness.
In the picture below you can see them as the multi-colored wires at
either end that appear looped around. This will give you extra wires
should you need them in the future and you will not have to open up the
harness. Be sure to give yourself plenty of length as you never know
where you might allocate them in the future.
16. Now it’s time to put it all back together. Get out your best
electrical tape (I use 3M *Scotch® Super 33+™ Vinyl Electrical Tape) and
wire loom protectors. Some options:
You can find the accordion wire loom at local Advance Auto, NAPA, AutoZone or PepBoys.
17. Be sure to tape up any of the exposed metal junction points
first. Then move to the areas near the zip-ties (and remove the ties).
Then to any of the wires that run near one another together to plugs.
And so forth.
Here are some pictures of others' completed looms:
I should also add that if you have a fast reacting IAT that you've
been waiting to install. this is the time. Cut the IAT plug and solder
your new IAT onto the harness per your IAT vendor's instruction.
Nice write-up. Should be stickied in a DIY section.
__________________
1993 VR Touring, RX-7 World Street Ported Engine with 3 mm
seals, BNR Stage 2s with Garfinkle "rich man's non-sequential" ported
manifold, full 3" exhaust, 15-16 psi boost, PFC, all emission related
equipment deleted, Roja 5 spokes.
2006 S2000, bone stock daily beater To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Agreed. This is a great write-up!! Thanks for your time Lord knows I'll be doing this soon. I can't wait to yank that engine bay apart. It's the thorn in my side of life....
__________________
It's FD time...
94 Montego Blue Base ...........Queen
2002 Acura RSX Type-S ..........Daily
wow would this have helped me out when I did my harness.
Keep in mind those of you who are planning to do this... do a really
good "look over" of all the other wires while you're in there. I found
quite a few cracked/splitting wires that needed to be repaired. This
outlines what you need to remove and how to do it, but spend an extra
hour looking everything over from ECU to clips. It will save headaches
when you re-install it and it doesn't work. Especially after wrapping
it in tape !
Just what i was looking for. Ill post my question here.
So a bare minimum harness would be as follow:
- Tps
- Omp
- Iat
- Water Temp Sender Gauge
- Coolant level Switch
- Knock sensor disconnect / coolant level disconnect (which does not pin into any connectors)
- Tsat housing X2
- Injectors X4
- Crank angle sensors X2
- Trans. Disconnects
Now there are 3 grounds in all I need help in direction with all three.
The ground near the ecu connectors made its way apart from one side can some diagram how this needs to be re soldered up?
The two other grounds bridge together to three wires that lead back to
the white connector plug and the other two to the yellow connector plug.
Should i leave these in the harness or can they be taken out?
__________________
T-N-C
94 white Widebody
94 white Pep "mild"
94 white 24tey Vert
Last edited by rx927; 12-24-09 at 05:00 PM.
Reason: Forgot trans disconnects
FUCK YES!!!! you just made it soo much more clearer for me.. now i can finish my harness this weekend awesome
__________________
93 FD3S 13B-RE
1989 FC vert. DD project
1991 NA Miata
my blog To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. / To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. /
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
The two other grounds bridge together to three wires that lead back to
the white connector plug and the other two to the yellow connector plug.
Should i leave these in the harness or can they be taken out?
if they're grounding a plug you should leave them in there. If
they're just a dead ground with no plug and don't connect to the looped
grounds that bolt to the frame then I don't see why they couldn't be
taken out.
I was considering fabricating a complete harness, just like OEM, but
w/o the plugs for all the stuff that gets eliminated. No butt
connectors, tape, etc.. I mean brand new but w/o the junk. I will have
to try it on my car first of course. If there were such a harness
available does anyone think that it could be something others would
want?
__________________
Air/Fuel/Timing-Thats What Makes HP
Jonny. It definately applies to single turbo cars with power fcs. I
mean, you can leave those lines in, the would just clutter up the engine
bay. This is just like unplugging them, except more permanent.
I just did this. Thanks grimple for the guidance.
__________________
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
93 Montego Blue RX-7
Installed: GT35r T4, Power FC, Blitz FMIC, Wideband, datalogit, 1680cc
Injectors, FPR, Supra TT Fuel Pump, Competition radiator, Twin Power
Installing: WI, body goodies, rewired electrical stuff
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
I was considering fabricating a
complete harness, just like OEM, but w/o the plugs for all the stuff
that gets eliminated. No butt connectors, tape, etc.. I mean brand new
but w/o the junk. I will have to try it on my car first of course. If
there were such a harness available does anyone think that it could be
something others would want?
This is a noble ambition but the fact of the matters is it has
been discussed and the ambition has been has before but the connectors
are not sourceable from other peoples attempts.
__________________
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
You need the discipline not just to come up with ideas, but also to
ensure that they really do give something positive in performance terms,
rather than just doing it to be different
- Adrian Newey
Very good writeup. One of these days I need to get in, pull my
harness, and clean it up. It's a definitely quite a project with the
engine still in the car.
__________________ 500+ rwhp thanks to:
Fast reacting open element IAT, Pre turbo water injection, master power
t70 @ 23psi, streetport, pfc, twinpower, greddy plugs, ebay intercooler,
3" exhaust, cold air intake,TII LSD, solid mounts, braces, wideband,
datalogit, my tune, dual FD fuel pumps, profec b, 550/1680
I see one of my red loomed single turbo harnesses in there. Good
write up. For whatever application you are running, taking your engine
harness apart and cleaning it up will yield better performance. Hard
baked wires will not deliver a good signal and shielded wires need just
that - good shielding.
No.. I didn't go that in depth. My harness was fairly low KM. I
visually went over and "bent around" every wire to check for cracks. I
also looked at every clip where the wires attach, and if there was wire
showing I replaced it and for some threw some silicone over the wire to
seal it from moisture.
Sorry to bump a hugely old post, but wuick questyion about the ever elusive earth wire for the ICV.
On mine (JDM car) it seems to earth to a pin on the blue connector - I'm
guessing I don't need to splice it to an additional earth as well as
this?
Cheers guys, and sorry for the thread revival.
Lord knows I'll be doing this soon. I can't wait to yank that engine bay apart. It's the thorn in my side of life....
awesome
Linear Mode
